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That's what we were trying to do," says Pat Doyle, the former city tourism official who helped develop the idea of a free shuttle. It's a good, worthwhile climb, but a lot of mountain bikers don't bother with it anymore. We hit Entertainment, which is packed with high-speed rollers through an open pine forest, playing out like a slalom course through the trees.

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It's moody as hell. Purcell, one of the longtime visionaries of the system, leads us off the paved road and starts pedaling up a dusty trail that traces the seam of one of the forest's narrow, dry creek beds. But if singletrack is like gold and let's be honest, singletrack is like gold , then Helena is experiencing its second boom as Purcell and his cohorts unearth former miner trails and motorcycle paths, clear deadfall and scrape away the top layer of scruff. You can see the gulches taking shape just outside of downtown, running like fingers into the various ridges on the horizon.

Blackfoot River Brewing is maybe three blocks away.

The Bunkhouse is a funky new spot on the edge of town super close to the trails as well that's worth checking out. Hanging Valley couldn't be more different than South Hills. You can see the gulches taking shape just outside of downtown, running like fingers into the various ridges on the horizon. You have to load your bike in a truck and drive an hour or so into the mountains and then you spend most of your time suffering up one side of a mountain just for a few minutes of bliss coming down the other side of a mountain. When I tell the guys how beautiful I think the riding is, they seem surprised, and quickly change the subject to another trail system in another town that's blowing their minds right now. We drove an hour into the mountains and rode for two hours to reach this point on the edge of the canyon.